Vogue UA: Hypersensitive Issue

The products of the young Ukrainian brand Re[Sens] effectively help solve skin issues triggered by external irritants.

“If there's anything we include abundantly in our formulas, it’s anti-inflammatory, hydrating, and soothing ingredients,” says Yuliia Hagarina, cosmetic developer and co-founder of the new Ukrainian brand Re[Sens]. The brand was introduced in Ukraine in the summer of last year, and today the Re[Sens] team — Hagarina, and entrepreneurs Yuliia Poliakova and Olha Huzhyk — is scaling production to meet demand in the UK, Spain, Latvia, and the UAE.

The brand's main focus is caring for sensitive skin — a concern for three out of four people worldwide.

Another point of pride for Re[Sens] developers is their eco-packaging: they were the first in Ukraine to use 100% biodegradable Sulapac material and also apply fallen leaves, mushroom mycelium, wood, and endlessly recyclable aluminium.

“In early spring, skin tends to feel its worst all year — due to the dry air in heated rooms, its sensitivity increases,” explains Hagarina. “After the standard seven hours of sleep in a room with 30% relative humidity (a typical winter bedroom level), skin hydration drops by a quarter. But different skin types respond to this in different ways.”

Paradoxically, dry skin feels the best in this scenario: in an attempt to compensate for the lack of moisture in the air, it starts producing twice as many lipids. While a morning moisturiser is still needed, the overall barrier function improves.

It’s more complicated for those with oily skin. In response to dry air, it produces 1.5 times more lipids than usual, yet its moisture level drops rapidly. As a result, the face appears shiny but remains dehydrated.

The first rule of skincare is sleeping in an environment with proper humidity (40–60%) and using a balanced night routine.

For dry skin, this means nourishing products that form a protective layer; for oily skin — lightweight creams that help retain moisture and regulate sebum production.

Another critical sleep-related factor is its quality: those who sleep poorly lose transepidermal moisture faster. This damages the skin’s barrier and leaves it vulnerable to irritants. Insomnia is a concern even in peaceful times, and today sleep quality is critically low.

Skin sensitivity is also heightened by overuse of skincare, excessive retinol and acid treatments, hormonal fluctuations, and polluted environments. Cold months, short daylight, and lack of sun often lead to anxiety and depression — emotional state directly impacts the skin. Psychiatrists even take note: facial redness can be an alarming sign of clinical depression.

Scientific literature views the microbiome — the collection of bacteria living on our skin — as a virtual organ deeply linked to both the immune and nervous systems.

The more diverse it is, the healthier the body. But the dominance of certain microbes may increase skin sensitivity and cause dermatological conditions.

The connection between skin condition and the microbiome is scientifically proven. The face looks more tired and aged when there’s a microbial imbalance or depletion. That’s why skincare should support not only the skin itself, but also its nerve cells.

Re[Sens] formulas include specific lactobacilli, prebiotics, and other microbiome-friendly ingredients that reduce inflammation and free cortisol levels in the skin.

However, not every cosmetic ingredient brings unconditional benefits. In spring, when the desire for glowing skin is especially strong, people often turn to exfoliating treatments. These typically include acids, enzymes, or retinol — all of which can heighten skin sensitivity and sun reactivity.

“There are many approaches to sensitive skin care. The most effective is ensuring quality sleep and a healthy lifestyle,” Yuliia concludes. “Cosmetics are just a supportive addition.”

TEXT: ALIONA PONOMARENKO